The Evolution of Whiskey: Part II
The Influence of Cognac and European Traditions on Whiskey
The modern whiskey we recognize today owes much to the legacy of European appreciation for cognac. In the 17th century, cognac was considered a prestigious beverage, reserved mainly for the elite and especially for royal households in Scotland and Ireland. Cognac was transported from the Cognac region of France to these royal residences, becoming a symbol of luxury and refinement. However, in the late 1700s, pests devastated more than half of the wine harvest in the city of Cognac. This catastrophe caused a dramatic decrease in supply, making it impossible for the Scottish royals to acquire their favored drink.
Faced with empty sherry casks that had once held cognac, a resourceful Scotsman decided to store whiskey in these barrels, hoping the lingering sherry aroma would impart a flavor reminiscent of cognac. This innovative approach proved successful, marking the beginning of a new distillation process for whiskey.
Adapting Whiskey Distillation in Colonial America
As Europeans settled in North America during colonial times, they sought to continue enjoying whiskey. The distinct climate and soil in America, however, necessitated changes in distillation techniques. Local grains such as rye, wheat, and corn became more prominent, and farmers often sold surplus grain to distillers as a source of additional income. The earliest American distilleries were established in Maryland, Pennsylvania, and Virginia, where these alternative grains were readily available.
Barley, a key ingredient in Scottish whiskey, was scarce in America. This prompted colonial distillers to combine corn—a staple among Native Americans—with barley, rye, and wheat, thereby extending their grain supplies. To replicate the peaty flavor characteristic of traditional whiskey, distillers experimented with methods such as adding hops or rye and charring casks, techniques that remain in use today.
The Rise of Rye Whiskey Distillation Styles
During this period, rye whiskey developed two distinct styles: Pennsylvania or Monongahela-style and Maryland style rye. Pennsylvania rye was known for its high rye content and absence of corn, resulting in a bold and spicy flavor. Though this style has largely disappeared, it is occasionally produced by small or home distillers. In contrast, Maryland style rye incorporates corn, adding sweetness to the whiskey—a tradition that continues in rye whiskey production today.
Shifting American Preferences in Spirits
By the 1700s, rum sales declined due to their reliance on molasses, a commodity closely tied to British rule. Similarly, gin—another popular spirit—lost favor because of its British origins. Americans, eager to distance themselves from their former rulers, sought alternatives not associated with British influence.
The Whiskey Tax and the Whiskey Rebellion
In the aftermath of the Revolutionary War, Treasury Secretary Alexander Hamilton proposed that the federal government assume the debts of individual states. Initially, President George Washington opposed the idea, but after consulting with government officials in Virginia and Pennsylvania, who supported the plan, he changed his stance. At that time, Pennsylvania housed approximately 3,000 distilleries, with Virginia close behind. Washington presented these findings to Congress, which swiftly passed the legislation.
The distillation tax, enacted in 1791, required all distillers to pay a tax to help repay war debts. Large producers paid six cents per gallon annually and received additional tax breaks for higher production volumes. Smaller producers, however, faced a tax of nine cents per gallon and received few, if any, tax breaks. The requirement for cash payment frustrated many farmers, who typically operated on a barter system.
In response, distillers rebelled, refusing to pay the tax and even resorting to violence against tax collectors. These uprisings culminated in the Whiskey Rebellion, a significant event in American history. Despite the bloodshed and the failure of the whiskey tax to achieve its intended goals, the law remained in effect until President Thomas Jefferson repealed it in 1802.